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Search our frequently asked questions, collected from thoughtful inquiries by caring keepers like you! If you have a question you don't see an answer to, we'd be happy to help, contact us!
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If you have an existing order, please include your order number.
Apex Reptile enclosures are built from standard-sized modular blocks (2'x2'x2', 3'x2'x2', 4'x2'x2') that can be used individually or combined to create larger, custom configurations. Blocks can be added over time as needs change. Each block connection point is reinforced with a 1" beam, increasing structural strength as the enclosure grows. There is no limit to size. Depth and height can only be increased in 2' increments due to standard block sizing.
Yes, every enclosure comes with both our signature latches as well as a keyed lock for every door.
We use Shopify's secure checkout, which accepts all major credit cards, plus ShopPay, PayPal, Google Pay, and Venmo. You can also set up a Shop Pay installment plan right at checkout if you'd like to split up the payment. More info on flexible payment options is available here.
Yes, we offer payment plans for our enclosures. To use this option, check out using “Shop Pay” and select “Pay in installments” instead of the credit card option when choosing a payment method. More details on the flexible payment options can be found here.
Honestly? They're just not the same product, and we know our enclosures aren't in everyone's budget. As long as you're doing what's within your capacity to give your reptile a good home, that's what matters most — and we're genuinely grateful there are plenty of options out there today. We started Apex Reptile to improve the lives of reptiles, and a market full of products pushing each other to be better is exactly what helps reptile keeping grow in the best way possible.
But you did ask, so buckle up — here's what actually sets us apart.
Most mass-produced enclosures on the market use 0.25" or thinner PVC, which loses a lot of the strength and insulation that thicker PVC actually offers (We've worked with plastic for over 20 years, thickness does matters). That thinner material struggles under real use — it flexes and weakens when you stack multiple enclosures, or fill a habitat with enrichment, branches, and decor. Most of these panels are also simple square cuts, which take far less time to manufacture and are typically produced overseas. These are also made lightweight to reduce shipping costs from overseas as well as domestically to you.
We know this firsthand — we've actually been sent the same catalog used to private-label that 'cost-effective' enclosure you'll see sold under a dozen different brand names right now. We chose not to go that route.
Instead, Apex Reptile enclosures are built from 0.5" thick HDPE (previously PVC), using interlocking panels that take significantly more time to machine, but give the whole structure real strength on its own. A full-grown adult could jump on top of an assembled Apex Reptile enclosure and it would hold up. Drop it down a flight of stairs, and it'll still hold up. That's not something you can say about an enclosure built from thin material wedged into a lightweight frame.
This is a product built to last the entire lifetime of your reptile, with the strength and function to hold up the whole way through and even adapt if your needs change.
To summarize:
Every single enclosure is built-to-order and almost entirely in-house, by a very small team that genuinely cares about what goes out the door. We're not a mass manufacturer — we're a small operation, and honestly, we've juggled other jobs and projects along the way just to keep this business growing, because we believe in what we designed enough to make it work.
On top of production, we're also constantly doing product development — testing new options, refining designs, and staying in touch with keepers to make sure what we're building actually holds up in real setups. That takes time too, and we'd rather take it than rush something out the door that isn't ready.
The wait is worth it, and we mean that! Many of our customers say the quality and strength of the build made the wait completely worthwhile.
Unfortunately we aren't able to accommodate size modifications right now. Since we're a small team that makes almost everything in-house with care, custom work would result in even longer wait times, and we want to keep our focus on fulfilling our standard modular enclosure orders. Thank you for understanding!
We've moved fully to our signature swing-out doors, and honestly, it wasn't a hard decision once we saw the difference. Sliding doors come with built-in air gaps that let heat and humidity escape, a track that collects debris and substrate over time, and enough vibration when opening to startle reptiles that are more perceptive than we often give them credit for. Our swing-out doors solve all of that — a fully sealed front, nothing to clean out of a track, and a smooth, quiet open every time. We know some keepers lean toward sliding doors because they're used to glass. But our polycarbonate doors give you that same clear visibility without the trade-offs — and if it ever gets scratched over years of use, it's a simple, affordable panel to replace, unlike swapping out a full glass pane. Once keepers make the switch, they rarely look back.
Apex Reptile enclosures are built from individual blocks that bolt together, so your enclosure isn't locked into one fixed size. Each block can stand alone as a self-contained habitat, or connect to others — side-by-side to add length, bottom-to-top to add height, or back-to-front to add depth. That means your enclosure can grow right along with your reptile: instead of buying a whole new enclosure when they need more space, you just add another block to the one you already have. It also makes moving easier, since the largest single piece you'd ever need to carry is one block, not an entire multi-block build. You can also replace a single panel if you ever want to change your set-up.
We're not able to accept returns or exchanges. We make every enclosure to order and given the size and nature of the product, we'd really appreciate you taking the time to double-check everything before placing your order. If you're unsure about sizing, configuration, or anything else, please reach out to us at hello@apexreptile.com before you order — we're always happy to help you get it right the first time.
Terrestrial enclosures are wider and longer than they are tall, designed for ground-dwelling species that spend most of their time on the floor of the habitat. Arboreal enclosures are taller instead, built for climbing species that need vertical height to move, perch, and thrive. Even for reptiles that aren't labeled strictly "arboreal," adding extra height can still be a great enrichment option, since many species enjoy climbing when given a safe way to do it. With an Apex Reptile enclosure you can add height to your enclosure at any time, or even add height to only one side for multi-block terrestrial enclosures.
It really depends on what your reptile needs! A solid top is a great choice for many species since it traps heat and moisture and your enclosure's built-in back and side vents handle the air exchange. A screen top is better for reptiles that need high airflow and are okay with lower humidity or if you have automated misters inside. If you're not sure which is right for your animal, just reach out and tell us what you're keeping and we'll point you in the right direction!
Shipping is completely free on all enclosures, no matter the size or how many boxes it ships in. We ship via FedEx to the contiguous US, and every order includes a tracking number so you can follow along once it's on its way.
Completely normal! Larger enclosures ship in multiple boxes, and those boxes can sometimes arrive on different days depending on how FedEx routes the packages. So if you get one or two boxes and are still waiting on the rest, check the tracking or reach out to us if you're unsure at hello@apexreptile.com.
We ship via FedEx Home Delivery. Larger or multi-block enclosures typically arrive in multiple boxes, and your master tracking number will show every box tied to your order, so you know exactly how many to expect. Since it's home delivery, you don't need a commercial address — it'll be dropped right at your door. For a more detailed breakdown, enter your master tracking number on the FedEx tracking website.
The number of boxes in your shipment depends on the size and configuration of your enclosure — larger or multi-block builds will typically ship in several boxes. Your master tracking number will show all the tracking numbers associated with your order so you know exactly how many to expect. The easiest way to see the whole breakdown is by entering your master tracking number on the the FedEx tracking website.
Our standard lead time is around 6–8 weeks from your order date, since every enclosure is made-to-order by our small team and built almost entirely in-house with care. You'll receive an automated email with tracking information as soon as your order ships, so you'll know when it’s going to arrive!
At this time we only ship within the contiguous US, and shipping is free.
We really wish we could offer international shipping, as well as shipping to Alaska and Hawaii, but unfortunately the costs just don't make sense for us or the keeper at this stage. We hope to expand shipping options as we grow!
This is automatically sent to your email address when you place an order. If you haven’t received your order confirmation within a few hours of your order, please get in touch at hello@apexreptile.com just in case there’s a problem with your order or you entered your email incorrectly. Please check your mailbox’s spam or junk folder too, in case the order confirmation has been diverted there.
Please reach out to us as soon as possible at hello@apexreptile.com if you need to cancel, within the first 3 hours of your order is our policy, but we'll always do our best to work with you when and if we can, so don't hesitate to reach out.
Once your order is placed, it goes into our production queue and we get to work! You won't see real-time production updates, but you will receive an automated tracking email the moment your order gets into a box. If you're between the 6-8 week mark and haven't heard anything, feel free to reach out with your order number and we'll give you a personal update. We genuinely appreciate your patience — it takes time to build something we're proud to send out.
Yes! You'll receive an automated email with your tracking number as soon as your order ships. If you don't see it, be sure to check your spam or junk folder just in case. If you've passed the 8-week mark and still haven't received tracking, reach out to us at hello@apexreptile.com with your order number and we'll get you an update right away.
Not at all! No news before the 6-8 week mark is normal as we are heads down building your order. Our small team works through orders in the queue and will send tracking as soon as yours is in a box. If you want a check-in before that, just send us your order number and we're happy to give you a status update.
HDPE (high-density polyethylene) is a premium plastic that other industries have trusted for decades — the same material used in outdoor furniture, playgrounds, marine hardware, and industrial machinery. We've wanted to make this switch for a long time. It's the final piece in pairing the best possible material with the engineering we've already put into every enclosure we build.
For your reptile, that translates into real, everyday benefits:
It's a material that's been proving itself for decades in far tougher conditions than a reptile enclosure — now finally built into a home your reptile can spend their whole life in.
No — unlike acrylic, polycarbonate is a stronger material that resists warping, even under high heat or humidity.
PVC enclosures are only available in black. HDPE enclosures come in either black or white. Either way, we also offer color covers that protect the front face of your enclosure and add a pop of color you can swap out easily whenever you'd like.
Polycarbonate can scratch over time with regular use, but it's super easy to replace. Compared to glass, polycarbonate is lighter to work with, far more impact-resistant, and won't shatter, which makes it a safer option for anywhere near your reptile.
Really well — it's one of the most scratch- and ding-resistant plastics used in reptile enclosures, so it holds up to daily life even with stronger or more active reptile residents. Its surface is much stronger than PVC.
HDPE is the safer of the two — it's FDA-compliant and food-contact safe, and it handles high heat without off-gassing, doesn't hold odors and is way more resistant to scratches. HDPE is also structurally stronger.
That said, 0.5" thick Made-in-USA PVC (used in Apex Reptile PVC enclosures) is still a solid alternative and isn't dangerous as long as heat isn't directed straight at the material itself. PVC is more prone to holding onto odors over time and scratches more easily than HDPE.
Both PVC and HDPE are waterproof materials on their own, even if the surface ever gets damaged, so it will never mold or rot with water exposure. But in both cases, the seams between panels still need to be sealed for the enclosure to be fully water tight.
Either way, seal the base seams and at least a few inches up the sides or all the way if you use misting. Keep in mind sealing the enclosures is not for using the enclosure like an aquarium — we don't recommend relying on it to hold water. For water features, use a smaller aquarium or water-tight dish instead.
For an enclosure that stays put, the sealants hold up great, even for bioactive setups. And if you ever need to move or expand, the sealant can be removed and reapplied.
Quick tips for assembly are included in your hardware box, but full images of assembly instructions are available at apexreptile.com/pages/assembly. The page walks you through everything step by step with diagrams. At the bottom of the page there are diagrams for multi-block enclosures. We always recommend pulling it up on your phone or a tablet while you assemble — it makes the whole process much easier! If you are stuck at any point, just reach out to hello@apexreptile.com and we'd be happy to walk you through it.
Most customers are pleasantly surprised by how straightforward it is! First, the enclosure walls interlock together, then the top and bottom pop on — no complicated alignment required. The modular design means each block goes together the same way, so once you've assembled one block, you've got the hang of it. Most single-block enclosures can be put together in under an hour. Multi-block builds take a bit longer, but the same logic applies across every block. We now include stickers on all the sides which help with making sure the sides are placed in the correct direction! Just match opposite colored arrows and make sure all the stickers are facing the inside of the enclosure.
You can clean & sanitize the PVC/HDPE portion of the enclosure with any reptile safe cleaner. To clean the clear polycarbonate doors and windows, we recommend using soap and water. For best results, use an old cotton t-shirt or cloth when wiping your enclosure, as it will help reduce static electricity build up. You can also use a plastic polish such as NOVUS #1 to help polish, remove static and increase clarity on clear material. Please do not use abrasive chemicals such as Windex or all purpose cleaners on the clear polycarbonate doors, windows, substrate barriers etc.
Our PVC enclosures are designed for indoor use only — PVC won't hold up to direct sunlight over time.
HDPE enclosures can be used outdoors once fully assembled. Just avoid leaving individual, unassembled panels in direct sunlight. Assembled enclosures are fine outside — for sealing, adding inner decor, or drying out after a wash-down.
If you're planning to keep your reptile in an HDPE enclosure outdoors permanently, keep a close eye on the internal temperature. Outdoor conditions can affect the habitat inside a lot more than your home's indoor environment does, so regular temperature checks are a must.
You can split a double door 4’x2’x2’ into two smaller habitats within the large enclosure (See divider). You can remove the divider by taking the top off and sliding it out of its tracks. This divider can be removed easily, but only through the removable top lid of the enclosure, not the front door.
Our second version of the divider is a temporary divider for a multi-block enclosure. This divider screws into the 2’x2’ seam where multiple enclosure blocks meet.
We offer metal stacking pins that fit into the 4 larger holes on top of each enclosure, which line up with 4 matching holes on the bottom of the enclosure above it. As long as you're stacking like-sized blocks, these pins keep everything securely in place. Reach out to hello@apexreptile.com if you need these pins.
Stands and stacking spacers both work the same way as the enclosures — in building blocks. Just match them to the footprint of your enclosure. For example, if your 6'x2'x2' is built from two 3'x2'x2' blocks, get two 3' stands (and two 3' stacking spacers, if needed). If it's built from a 4' and a 2' block instead, get one 4' and one 2' stand or spacer.
Any of our enclosures can be stacked, as long as you're stacking like-sized blocks — that's what keeps everything sitting flush and stable. Stacking works especially well with our design since the interlocking structure means the weight is never resting on the screws. Instead, it's distributed across the whole frame, so stacked enclosures stay solid and secure.
Not if both enclosures have solid tops — same-sized, solid-top blocks can be stacked directly on top of each other without a spacer. Stacking spacers are only needed if the enclosure you're stacking on top of has a screen top, since it protects the mesh from the weight above it. If you'd like some raised storage in between two solid-top enclosures, you can place a stand in the middle instead.
Yes! Since everything is modular, swapping out a single panel is possible — no need to replace the whole enclosure.
Yes, with a small modification! The built-in wire pockets (cord slots) are large enough to run most mister tubing through for cord management, but to actually get the spray nozzles inside the enclosure where you want them, you'll want to drill a small hole for the nozzle placement (size should be indicated in the instructions of the misting system you're using). The material is very easy to drill through with a standard drill bit — it's not hard like wood and doesn't require anything specialized. A lot of our customers do this and it works really well!
With a solid top, both can be mounted directly inside the enclosure by attaching fixtures directly to the top, which is what most of our customers do. You can lay the solid top flat on the floor and screw your fixtures into it with appropriately sized screws. There are wire pockets for wires exiting without any additional drilling. For heat lamps, we highly recommend a caged ceramic fixture for safety. Most UVB fixtures come with mounting brackets for a solid top, but if yours doesn't, standard brackets can be found online. Alternatively, you can opt for a screen top and place your fixtures on the outside of the enclosure, directly on top of the screen. Choosing the top depends on how much ventilation you need as well as your preference for heat and light fixture set-up.
Not at all! You do not need a screen top to run heating and UVB lighting. Our enclosures have built-in vents on the back and sides for air exchange, and fixtures mount directly to the solid top lid on the inside. You can lay the solid top flat on the floor and screw your fixtures into it. There are wire pockets for wires exiting without any additional drilling. A screen top is great for reptiles that specifically need high airflow, but for humidity-loving species a solid top can work better since it helps you maintain the humidity levels they need.
Yes! You can absolutely mount radiant heat panels to the solid top of your enclosure on the inside — they work really well. One thing to keep in mind if you're stacking: there is some heat transfer that happens between the RHP and the bottom of the unit above it. You can add stacking spacers to reduce that transfer if needed. For species that thrive in similar temps, it's usually not a big issue — especially if you orient the warm sides on the same side across stacked enclosures.
Undertank heat mats are not compatible with any PVC enclosures, or HDPE enclosures — they're designed for glass tanks. 1/2" PVC & HDPE makes it difficult for the heat to transfer effectively, and heat mats typically need ventilation around them which doesn't work well with most enclosures which need to be on a flat surface (even if an engraving is added). For belly heat that mimics nature, the best approach is to place a piece of slate or flat rock directly under your overhead heating element — it absorbs and holds heat really well and mimics a natural basking spot!
Enclosures can be combined on any sides that match in size, in any direction — length, depth, or height. To connect two blocks, both sides being joined need a pass-through panel instead of a solid one: replace any solid panel with a Pass-Through Panel, then bolt it to a matching pass-through side on the other enclosure. If a side already has a side window, no new panel is needed — just remove the clear window piece, and the frame underneath is already a pass-through connection point. See extension components here.
All enclosures can be expanded in any direction — you're never locked into the size you start with. The main rule: you can combine enclosures on sides that match in size. So two 4'x2'x2' blocks can be joined in depth or height, since those sides match. For length, any of our enclosures share the same 2' depth and 2' height, so you can connect blocks of different lengths — like a 4'x2'x2' and a 2'x2'x2' — right in a row.
If you already have two enclosures with the same depth and height, you can join them into an L-shape using our corner extension cube. If you only have one enclosure so far, you'll need both the corner extension cube and a second enclosure to attach on the other side.
Yes! PVC and HDPE enclosures use the same modular connection system, so you can bolt a PVC block and an HDPE block together without any issues structurally. Just keep in mind that the two materials will look slightly different side by side, and if you're mixing them, we'd still recommend sealing the connecting seam with the sealant that matches each material — silicone on the PVC side, LEXEL on the HDPE side.
First — we are so sorry about that, and we are going to make it right! Just email us at hello@apexreptile.com with your order number and a description of which piece is missing. If you're not sure exactly what to call it, a photo of the parts you did receive is great, we can figure it out. Once we know what's needed, we'll get the correct piece shipped out to you as quickly as possible. We would appreciate it if you checked your order as soon as possible after the arrival date to make sure everything arrived. We pack every kit by hand here in the shop, and every once in a while something slips through, so we appreciate your patience immensely as we make it right!
This is something we will absolutely fix! Email us at hello@apexreptile.com with your order number and a description (or photo) of what you received and a description of what you were expecting (We will look up your order as well!). In some cases we can send the missing component to complete the piece you received, or we can send the correct piece entirely — we'll work with you to figure out the fastest solution so your enclosure is up and running as soon as possible. We would appreciate it if you checked your order as soon as possible after the arrival date to make sure everything arrived.
Yes — if something arrived damaged in shipping, that is completely on us and we will replace it. Please email hello@apexreptile.com with your order number and a photo of the damage so we can see exactly what happened. Photos are really the fastest way to get you sorted since we can immediately identify the part and get a replacement out without a lot of back-and-forth. We would appreciate it if you checked your order as soon as possible after the arrival date to make sure everything arrived safe and undamaged.
We're so sorry, and we totally understand the frustration of sending an email into what feels like silence. Here's the honest truth: we're a small team, and the same few people answering emails are also the ones building, packing, and shipping every single enclosure. Some weeks get away from us faster than others, especially during busier stretches, and email can fall a little behind while we're heads-down on production.
That doesn't mean you're forgotten — every email does get a real, personal response, it just might take us longer than we'd like some weeks. If it's been more than a few business days and you haven't heard anything, please don't hesitate to send a follow-up.
We're genuinely working on getting faster here. Growth means our product is working, and we're using it to expand our capacity — so we can respond and build faster. We appreciate your patience more than ever while we get there.
Yes! We offer a lifetime warranty on our latches. If your latch breaks — whether it's brand new or you've had your enclosure for years — just reach out to us at hello@apexreptile.com with your order number and your current shipping address and we'll get a replacement sent out to you right away.
Absolutely — just email us at hello@apexreptile.com with your order number and your shipping address and we'll get a new set out for you. It happens more often than you'd think, especially after a move! Just so you know, we updated our key locks at one point, so if you have an older enclosure we'll make sure to send you the correct set (and may send both just to be safe).
Yes, of course! Email us directly at hello@apexreptile.com with your order number, a good shipping address and a photo if you have one (so we can see which style of hinge your enclosure has), and we'll get a replacement set shipped out.
This is usually a leveling issue, if the surface underneath isn't perfectly flat, it can skew the enclosure and throw off alignment. Try adding a thin shim under the front of the enclosure on one side — that's often enough to fix it. If it's still off after that, email us a photo at hello@apexreptile.com and we'll take a look.
Yes, we do. These are issued electronically by email and each contains a unique reference number and doesn't exprires. Our gift vouchers are ideal if you’re not sure what to get that special person in your life. You can purchase a gift card here.